Kolhapuris, Bandhej and beyond: The world is obsessed with Indian crafts - but where is the credit?

Kolhapuri chappals are now being sold as toe-ring sandals.

Bandhani becomes bandana.

Lehengas are reduced to beaded maxi skirts, dupattas to Scandinavian scarves, and Banarasi weave gets flattened into brocade. The dastaar becomes an "Indie turban", and delicate mukaish embroidery shows up on Western coats, reimagined without a whisper of its origin.

These crafts aren’t just pretty trends. They’re stories. They’re survival. They’re centuries of culture passed down through generations — the Kohinoors of our land, carved by time, climate, hands, and identity. Yet they are borrowed and rebranded, often without credit, often without care.

And this conversation doesn’t stop at crafts. It stretches far deeper — into the repackaging of Indian culture itself.

The Kolhapuri Chappal: From Bidar to the World (But Without a Label)

Kolhapuris are traditional open footwear, made from leather tanned with vegetable dyes. They originated in 12th-century Bidar, Karnataka, and are still lovingly worn across Maharashtra and Karnataka.

Apart from their rustic charm and intricate patterns, their beauty lies in their function — they mold to the wearer’s feet, adapting to each person’s walk and stance. With proper care, they can last for decades. And yet, when sold abroad, they’re often presented as “ toe-ring sandals” — a product divorced from its name, place, and makers.

Bandhani: A Tied Tradition, Loosely Taken

The word Bandhani comes from the Hindi word "Bandhna", which means to tie. It refers to a traditional tie-and-dye method used to create vivid, dotted patterns on cotton or silk. Each Bandhani fabric is painstakingly tied, dyed, and revealed — with a visual rhythm that reflects the spirit of Gujarat and Rajasthan.

But when it travels west, this technique is rebranded as a bandana — a simple, machine-printed square of cloth worn as a headband or scarf, stripped of the artistry, story, and regional legacy that birthed it.

Banarasi Silk: Luxury Beyond Brocade

Hailing from Varanasi, one of the oldest cities in the world, Banarasi silk is woven with zari threads — often gold or silver — to create raised, ornamental motifs. The craftsmanship is not only regal but painstaking. Yet internationally, these works are often flattened into the term "brocade" — a generic umbrella for any fabric with decorative designs, ignoring the specific handloom heritage, spiritual symbolism, and luxurious character of the Banarasi weave.

It’s Not Just Products — It’s Perspective

This pattern is only a reflection of a larger cultural lens.

Indian culture is often filtered through a Western perspective — interpreted, categorized, and judged by Western standards. From art to music, and from fashion to language, we are made to question our worth unless it is validated by an outsider.

We see this in everyday life:

• Indian music gets dismissed as "too classical" or "not cool enough," while Western music is embraced as modern.

• We know more about global pop stars than we do about Indian composers.

• Indian materials are only called luxury once showcased by brands like Dior or Prada on global runways.

It’s as if we need the West to remind us of our own gold.

Time to Reclaim Our Craft. And Our Confidence.

India is home to hundreds of craft forms, each with its own story and soul — many of which are already fading into silence.

But this is our moment.

It’s been 77 years since Independence — and it's time to take back our stories. That means:

• Learning the names of our crafts.

• Supporting artisans and weavers directly.

• Wearing Indian textiles with pride, not nostalgia.

• Speaking our languages with love, not apology.

Our identity doesn’t need translation or validation. It needs recognition — starting from within.

Let’s not wait for the world to call our traditions "cool" before we cherish them ourselves.

Do you own something handcrafted in India? Post about it. Say its name. Tag the region. Credit the artisan if you can.

That’s how we keep our heritage alive — one story, one label, one voice at a time.