Before the Silk, There Was Cotton: The Story of Kancheepuram Weaves

When we hear Kanjeevaram, our minds often leap to rich, lustrous silk sarees — the kind that light up weddings and grand ceremonies. But hidden beneath this celebrated sheen lies a quieter, older legacy: cotton.

Long before silk found its way to the temple town of Kancheepuram, this land was home to cotton looms.

A Town Built Around Temples — And Threads

Temple streets of Kancheepuram

Known as the land of a thousand temples, Kancheepuram’s roots run deep — into the soil, the scriptures, and the warp and weft of its weaving history. Like many ancient Indian towns, it grew around temples and rivers. And it was here, centuries ago during the Chola period (9th CE), that clusters of weaver families began settling.

These artisans wove fabrics as offerings to the deities — a form of Bhakti expressed through every thread. Entire families worked together — spinning, dyeing, weaving — creating textiles that reflected the architecture and aura of the temples they served.

There’s even a beautiful belief that these weavers are descendants of the sage Markandeya, a devotee of Shiva, who is said to have woven the first fabric from lotus fibre sprung from Lord Vishnu’s navel — truly, cloth of the gods.

Cotton Came First

Cotton plant

Interestingly, long before silk cultivation found its way into the region, the fertile red and black soils of Tamil Nadu nurtured thriving cotton crops. While mulberry silk arrived through port trade, local sericulture was not yet practiced. It was only later—during the Vijayanagara empire and further encouraged under British rule—that silk cultivation began to develop in this region. Cotton weaving, meanwhile, formed the backbone of the local textile tradition, with weavers handspinning yarn to craft sarees that were light, breathable, and intricately adorned with motifs inspired by nature and temple architecture.

It is said that looms around Shiva temples wove cotton — fitting, as Shiva, the ascetic, was seen draped in humble cloth. Looms near Vishnu temples, on the other hand, embraced silk, reflecting Vishnu’s royal and resplendent image. Whether for god or king, temple or palace, weaving was a sacred duty.

The Shift to Silk

Silk handloom weaving in Knacheepuram

Over time, especially during the colonial period, silk production received a push — from both local rulers and the British. Silk began to dominate the narrative, and Kancheepuram became synonymous with opulent Kanjeevaram silk sarees. Cotton slowly took a back seat — but it never disappeared.

The Grace of Kanchi Cottons

Today, Kanchi cotton sarees quietly continue this legacy. Woven with motifs like Rudraksha, Mayil (peacock), Simham (lion), and Kodi (floral creeper), they carry echoes of a time when design came from devotion. Their elegant pallus, soft drape, and earthy colours make them perfect for daily wear — airy and graceful, yet rooted in tradition.

Some are purely handloom; others come from power looms. Some are adorned with zari borders, lending a subtle richness to the otherwise understated cotton body. But what they all share is a lineage of care, culture, and craftsmanship.